DISCLAIMER: This is an Informational NOT an Instructional post. Any attempts to do the following will be taken at your own risk. In no way is the NorCal4x4Forum.com staff or members to be held responsible. The following information is not for technical use. With that said---
This will be a little hard, since I'm having problems with my flickr account. I can't post full size pics, so I'll just post the smaller ones they've allowed. I hope it works, and this isn’t all for nothing.
Total time: Roughly 12 Hours (includes taking pictures) Instructions calls for 8.
I did the BL lift myself, so pics aren't the best, nor are the instructions. But they're better than the one supplied.
I used basic hand tools, not air guns, no magic.
It's suggested that you have a buddy help you out, it'll go much much quicker!
1) First thing you want to do, is lay everything out. Depending on what kit you have, different items will be included. I went with the Performance Accessories kit, since it included everything I needed. The 2” kit doesn’t include bumper brackets, so spacing will be way off.
Check everything off your list, and mark them so when you start doing so, it’ll be easier to know which one goes where.
2) Next remove your fuse for the air bag and remove both terminals from the battery to be safe.
3) Make sure you annotate all measurements prior to removing anything. Distance from cab to bed, distance from bumper to bed, bumper to grill, bumper to fender, etc
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4) Remove fog lamp
5) Remove 11 clips that hold the air dam to the bumper support. This will need to be reinstalled to “force” air through the radiator at speed.
6) Next remove the bumpers, both front and rears. If you’re doing this alone, make sure you have something for the bumper to prop up on, so it doesn’t crush you in the process. The rear bumper (if equipped with towing capabilities) is super heavy. You’ll learn to appreciate the weight when test fitting the rear bumper later.
Each bumper is held on by four (4) 19mm bolts.
7) Remove the radiator shroud (two bolts, then slide it up, rest it on the fan for now) and the 7 plastic bolts from the radiator shroud.
8) Now remove the 3 bolts from the intake/throttle body cover, do not lose the captive washers!
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9) Disconnect the filter housing at the connection
10) Disconnect the intake plumbing at the throttle body.
11) Remove the radiator cap, and drain the coolant into an approved container.
I made it easier on myself and threw a tube I had onto the petcock and drained into a 5 gallon bucket.
12) Now remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, and if equipped with an auto tranny, remove the tranny cooler lines as well.
13) Now remove the radiator support brackets.
14) Now remove the bolts for the power steering and tranny cooler.
15) Along the driver’s side frame rail, you’ll see fuel lines that lead from the front to back (or back to front) undo those clips and let them hang. You’ll later zip tie it together.
16) Next remove the cab safety cables. There is one on each side of the truck.
It just looks like a fat grounding strap, but it’s actually to keep the cab tethered to the chasis incase something like a roll over.
17) Remove the ground strap on the passenger side.
18) Go under the truck, and remove the transmission shift bracket. You will install the supplied bracket so it’ll allow proper shifting.
And this is what it’ll look like installed:
19) Next tie the steering wheel so it will not turn freely, and remove the steering linkage.
This is an image of the linkage (supplied)
And of it installed:
20) Next remove the door sill plates around every door.
It may be necessary to remove other trim in order to get to the rubber grommets that holds cab to the frame.
21) Pull away the carpet at the front corners and you’ll see the rubber grommets, remove those with a screw driver, or anything that’ll get in there.
The rubber grommet I’m talking about is just beyond the parking brakes.
This is what it’ll look like inside:
22) Remove the trim at the rear of the truck, and the seats if you have the supercrew as I do.
23) Next remove your fuel cap.
24) There are 3 bolts that holds the filler neck to the bed of the truck, remove thos (5.5MM I believe) and place the screws in a safe place. Allow the neck to sink.
25) Now prepare to lift the cab from the frame. Remove the 6 bed bolts (torx bit required)
26) Slide bed back at least 1 inch to allow cab to move and not contact bed.
27) Remove the 8 bolts securing the cab to the chasis.
a) Two just off to the side of the radiator
b) Two at the front corner (driver’s left foot, front passenger’s right foot)
c) Two at the middle of the cab
d) Two under the plastic trim (storage compartment)
28) You will have to drill out the front two bushings. A regular drill bit will not work, invest 3 dollars in a step bit, you’ll need it later anyways.
97-03 F150 Body Lift
